Filip's GTV TS Clubsport project

[Filip 124]

Just a brain fart with me in the excitement over that a V6 (V6 faster) Kalmar pinne actually fit your TS.

 

Oh, right 

[Filip 124]

Just a quick question: do you guys put any anti seize agent on the front caliper bolts, the big ones that hold the bracket? They were a bitch to loosen, so I'm wondering if i can avoid that in the future. Will torque up the bolts to the specified 98-108 Nm. 

[GTV-TB 315]

I do, it makes it easier when you later need to do any work and it is less likely that you destroy anything if you need to split the parts again, if you are afraid that the bolts should come loose then you can use http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bygg/Kemikalier/Ovrigt/Skruvlasning-362774/ it also protects against corrosion but I have never had any problems with the use of http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bilreservdelar/Avgassystem/Avgassystem-Standard/Kopparpasta-361800/ .
 

 

[Thanos 193]

hmm

what about asking Bitema a sponsorship for the forum?

[GTV-TB 315]

hmm

what about asking Bitema a sponsorship for the forum?

I'm not biased  , so here is good alternatives.

[Filip 124]

 

 

 

Bottom line: I have established that a brace from a 155 2.5 V6 should fit a GTV TS with tiny mods and a TB if an intake hose is re-routed. Obviously, braces for the 155 V6 could differ in shape too, so it's not bulletproof. 

 

 

 

New bottom line:   I'm an idiot! 

 

Why? I realized that I never tried closing the bonnet (I dare not say another American word like hood...) with the strut brace fitted.

FAIL. 

The bonnet won't close. It's not far away, but still. Kind of an issue 

Note that I don't have the heat shield/foil left on the inside of the bonnet either. 

 

Good news: The lower brace fits perfectly! Don't know what torque those bolts use but I applied the little common sense I have and tightened them until I got the right, cosy feeling. 

 

Potentially good news 1: I don't think I have to make new brake lines for the front and join them with the old one behind the inner fenders. Cutting the existing line just a few millimeters, just above the existing flange and making a new one (not a Biltema tool this time, sorry GTV-TB) should bring the bacon home  Then I just bend the brake line slightly and join it with the hose using the usual bracket. 

 

Potentially good news 2: I don't have any obvious oil leaks, which I previously suspected. Instead, the sump plug turned out to be shitty. Doesn't seal properly. I'll change it when I do the pre season service later on 

 

F**k me news 1: Forgot to put the gravel guard back on when I started fitting one of the calipers. I want to keep them because I might find myself on a gravel road in the middle of nowhere, practicing left foot braking... 

[Filip 124]

Im the man - the Stagman... Damdamdaaaaaa...

 

Glad it suited!

 

As you can see, it turned out that it didn't quite fit. I'm putting on the praktikant-mössa 

Some fabulous Paint-pics and some sketches are coming your way later this week. I'll try to find a way to solve both the bonnet clearance issues and the TB's intake problem at the same time.

[Filip 124]

What kind of monster brake lines do these cars have?! The tube just laughs at my flaring tool like "Really? Is that all you got?!"

[GTV-TB 315]

What kind of monster brake lines do these cars have?! The tube just laughs at my flaring tool like "Really? Is that all you got?!"

 .....What brand of  flaring tool do you have?  

[Alfaduden 226]

"Hva har du lagt i møssan"???

 

[GTV-TB 315]

What kind of monster brake lines do these cars have?! The tube just laughs at my flaring tool like "Really? Is that all you got?!"

OE brake lines are made of steel and are harder to "deform" than lines made of copper, how do you do when you cut the lines, do you use a tubing cutter?

 

If you use a tubing cutter the action of the cutter will "harden" the brake line end and make flaring more difficult if not impossible, so after you have cut the brake line, take a fine tooth file and file down the end a few mm. and then try to flare the brake line, make sure that the clamp holding the brake line is as tight as it can get.

 

I hope it helps, otherwise you need to eat more porridge.

[Filip 124]

OE brake lines are made of steel and are harder to "deform" than lines made of copper, how do you do when you cut the lines, do you use a tubing cutter?

 

If you use a tubing cutter the action of the cutter will "harden" the brake line end and make flaring more difficult if not impossible, so after you have cut the brake line, take a fine tooth file and file down the end a few mm. and then try to flare the brake line, make sure that the clamp holding the brake line is as tight as it can get.

 

I hope it helps, otherwise you need to eat more porridge.

 

Thanks! The fine tooth file advice is great, gonna try that!

Elsewhere (on a Volvo forum... heresy!  ) I read that heating up the tube might help too. Heat gun and a file is my new plan...

 

If I hit the gym, I'll probably end up breaking the flaring tool instead

[Filip 124]

Crap... The brake line won't budge. Need a new strategy and maybe another tool.

Anyone know where the rear ABS sensor connectors are located?

[GTV-TB 315]

Crap... The brake line won't budge. Need a new strategy and maybe another tool.

 

 Or more violence.

 

 

Anyone know where the rear ABS sensor connectors are located?

 

 Remove the rear seat, remove the side panels, number 1 in the picture.

 

 

[Filip 124]

Great, thanks! I didn't get further than removing the seats and backrests because I was freezing my ass off

Now I know where to look, thanks!

[Filip 124]

Did some "brace work" tonight. It'll be sorted before the season starts up here

[Filip 124]

Heat & Violence!!!

[GTV-TB 315]

Hehee.....

[Filip 124]

I've read about a few chassis related things that I wanna ask you all about. Have you heard of these mods before/tried them? 

 

• Front wishbones from the Fiat Multipla. Allegedly, they are longer so you add negative camber.
• Topmounts from the Fiat Brava of the late 90's that also give you more negative camber.
• Rear ARB from the Fiat Coupé 16VT or 20VT. They are supposedly sturdier than the factory TS bar and
  seem like they should be bolt-on (which is never really true anyway, but...)

Hit me! 

[GTV-TB 315]

I've read about a few chassis related things that I wanna ask you all about. Have you heard of these mods before/tried them? 

 

• Front wishbones from the Fiat Multipla. Allegedly, they are longer so you add negative camber.
• Topmounts from the Fiat Brava of the late 90's that also give you more negative camber.
• Rear ARB from the Fiat Coupé 16VT or 20VT. They are supposedly sturdier than the factory TS bar and

  seem like they should be bolt-on (which is never really true anyway, but...)

Hit me! 

 

I've heard the same rumors as you have about the use of Fiat Multipla/Brava parts to change the camber, but I have not checked it when it was not really interesting as you lock yourself to a fix setting that may not work.

 

Why not use eccentric bolts like Monroe magic camber or similar, you get the possibility to vary the camber +/- 2-3 degrees (you will probably find a good setup there) and you have the possibility to even out L/R camber, and it will be cheaper.

 

That the Fiat Coupe rear ARB would fit I very much doubt, it is a very different design of the rear end,

front ARB will probably fit.

 

[Filip 124]

Well, since there are no (?) coilover kits with adjustable top mounts, I guess we have to do some R & D? 

 

Already bought Eibach camber bolts  Haven't fitted them yet because the existing bolt looks seized as ************

[GTV-TB 315]

Haven't fitted them yet because the existing bolt looks seized as ************

 

Heat & Violence!!!   

 

[Filip 124]

Heat & Violence!!!   

 

It's gonna be a...  ... 

[Damgreg 94]

I bought front wishbones for my p2 TB and it appears that they are longer than the wishbones on my TB. 

It was a similar kit @110€ excluding shipping.

http://www.ebay.fr/itm/KIT-TRIANGLE-DE-SUSPENSION-BIELLETTTE-AVANT-ALFA-ROMEO-GTV-SPIDER-/141173011802?pt=JG_FR_Auto_Pi%C3%A8ces&hash=item20de91355a

 

And haven't fitted them... A friend bought them before and when I bought them I saw his Gtv with the negative camber... So I guess it's not the good parts...

 

Who wants to try them? 

[Filip 124]

What's wrong with added camber?

Do you have the OE references of both sets? How much longer are they?