Filip's GTV TS Clubsport project

[Filip 124]

Drive faster more air is forced through the radiator.

Ace

[GTV-TB 315]

Yea, a new radiator would give me some peace... But civil war in my wallet ...

 

New radiator can be found for around 500 krona including shipping on fleebay, they are made of aluminum and weighs much less    than OE if you have such.

 

[Alfaduden 226]

New radiator can be found for around 500 krona including shipping on fleebay, they are made of aluminum and weighs much less    than OE if you have such.

 

 

 

Krona? Is that Norwegian dialect you're trying? Kronor is the right word in this Swedish situation   

 

Filip! That is a free tuning tip for you! Better cooling AAAAAND lighter in the nose at the same time!!! 

[Filip 124]

You're kidding me?

I haven't looked because I expected them to cost like 2000 kronor (220 €) and that would have made me sad

[GTV-TB 315]

Krona? Is that Norwegian dialect you're trying? Kronor is the right word in this Swedish situation   

 

No success with my Norwegian   ?

[Alfaduden 226]

No success with my Norwegian   ?

 

Actually you were spot on sir! That is the way they say it in northern parts of Norway

[Filip 124]

New radiator can be found for around 500 krona including shipping on fleebay, they are made of aluminum and weighs much less    than OE if you have such.

 

 

You exaggerated a little, didn't you? 

Around  £ 50 + shipping at about £ 20... that's 700 SEK+. Fraud 

[GTV-TB 315]

You exaggerated a little, didn't you? 

Around  £ 50 + shipping at about £ 20... that's 700 SEK+. Fraud 

Nop, I'm pretty sure I gave 550 kronor all in, when I bought one.

 

an example of £33.00  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALFA-ROMEO-GTV-SPIDER-2-0-3-0-1995-2004-MANUAL-RADIATOR-NEW-2-YEAR-WARRANTY-/291024853809?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AGTV&hash=item43c26edb31#ht_2004wt_931

 

 

 

 

[Filip 124]

I stand corrected

[Alfaduden 226]

Just open your eyes Filip  

[Filip 124]

I'm back 

Spent a month in the USA on vacation. Saw a total of 1 Alfa Romeo  A nice Duetto for sale in a showroom. 

 

Anyhow, it's back to fixing stuff on my GTV. And the list has grown... Last time I left the list, it looked like this: 

 

• Sparco hubcentric 12mm spacers 
• Rear silencer/tailpipe. Its poor construction creates a lot of resonance and doesnt muffle the sound very well. Photo to be posted... 
• Version 2.0 of the intake mount. Trimmed and painted, hopefully  
• Oil change to 10W-60.
• Gearbox oil change
• Re-bleed the brakes, again. A slightly spongy pedal feel on an Alfa? No... 
• New radiator + heat valve/exchanger for the cabin (what the hell is the right name?)
• Clean/repair wiring for the cooling fan. It works but I found a great guide on a Swedish site, so I will do it to keep them working in the future...
• Camber bolts
• Fit a new headlining. It has become a hugger... 

[Filip 124]

Edited: 

Been busy installing the camber bolts, or rather busy removing the old regular bolts. They had seized up bad but a lot of hammering and cursing solved the problem. Took like 40 min/bolt. 

 

Also, I had to order a second set as the first were too big. Eibach 5.81240K is the one you want, at least on a GTV.

The 250K don't work because the cam is larger in diameter than the hole in the hub/shock, as shown below:

 

 

 

The problem that I'm facing now is that the bottom bolts are even more stuck than the top ones. I'm halfway to making the bolt head round so I guess an air tool with a hammer mechanism is what I need.

Edited August 9, 2014 by Filip

[Filip 124]

Happy news!

 

A while back, I received my strut brace from elcrillo. He did an amazing job modifying it to fit my car.

I like the look, simple yet solid. 

 

 

Edited August 9, 2014 by Filip

[Thanos 193]

From fiat coupe?

[Filip 124]

From fiat coupe?

 

Originally, we tried to make a strut brace from a 155 V6 work but its curvature that allows for the V6's plenum collided with the slanted hood of the GTV. This is a different brace and the slanted portions closest to the mounting points decrease its rigidity but was a necessity because of the ABS lines.  

[Filip 124]

Got started on changing the transmission fluid today 

Modified some tools so that I could get to the stupid drain plugs, see the separate thread about that problem: 

http://www.squadra916.com/forums/topic/3438-gtv-ts-gearbox-drain-plug-problem/

 

 

 

The oil looked fairly fresh, surprisingly. While I was at it, I decided to remove the casing and have a look inside.

http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/alfa_4th_gear.shtml

No metal fragments! Will reassemble and fill it up with new oil as soon as I get around to buying gasket sealant.

 

 

 

 

I took the opportunity to clean the casing with a wire brush so it looks a lot nicer than before. My car is missing
arch liner gearbox cover flapadap so the 'box gets covered in dust and dirt in no time, but I usually don't put 
greasy and nasty parts back on the car without cleaning them. 

 

Edited August 15, 2014 by Filip

[GTV-TB 315]

Loctite 598 good gunk to seal gearbox with, a good gearbox oil http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bilvard/Olja-och-Smorjmedel/Hydraul--och-transmissionsolja/Transmissionsolja-helsyntetisk-75W-90-36997/.

 

 

[Filip 124]

Loctite 598 good gunk to seal gearbox with, a good gearbox oil http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bilvard/Olja-och-Smorjmedel/Hydraul--och-transmissionsolja/Transmissionsolja-helsyntetisk-75W-90-36997/.

Thanks. Already bought a Liqui Moly 75W-90...

The gunk market is confusing... I prefer Permatex for some reason.

[Filip 124]

Filled up the gearbox tonight but I estimate that only 1.5L stayed in there. The oil wanted very much to come back out... And I wasn't fast enough with the plug.

The price for that piece of knowledge is a new bottle of oil, I guess. A new attempt to put the remaining 0.4L in there coming up...

[GTV-TB 315]

So no report yet on how the gear changes are with an oil containing anticaries additives then.

[Filip 124]

So no report yet on how the gear changes are with an oil containing anticaries additives then.

Don't see the connection to tooth paste...

 

 

Anywho, I kicked some major butt in the garage today and constructed a new exhaust layout. I moved the silencers further back, went medieval on some heat shields and fitted proper mounts along the whole thing  No photos tho... yet. 

Edited August 20, 2014 by Filip

[Filip 124]

Completed my exhaust system prototype and it's awesome.

It makes less drone at constant revs and the drone that's still there has a more comfortable frequency. The farting is almost entirely gone! Also, I've got three leaking welds in the front pipe-cat area, so it's gonna get even better

Will get help with the welding soon. Currently, it's being held together by clamps

For me, it doubled the car's value. Money-wise, I doubt it made any difference on the value...

[GTV-TB 315]

Nice that you are making progress...   the value of these cars is nothing that can be measured in money you will never get them back, so you spend what you can spare and has one hell of enjoyable car.

[Filip 124]

Nice that you are making progress... the value of these cars is nothing that can be measured in money you will never get them back, so you spend what you can spare and has one hell of enjoyable car.

Progress might not be accurate... Couldn't get any welding done because the front pipe bolts (where the manifold connects to the front pipe) were seized. Anyone know if they are M8? Gonna get new ones and copper nuts.

On the plus side:

The driver side power window is now alive again!

The lock nut on the long bolt holding the window slider on the "B-pillar side" of the door had unscrewed itself, preventing the window from moving freely.

Tightening it, and putting some extra grease on the mechanism, made it run smoothly. Smoother than the passenger side window...

[Filip 124]

Using a torch and other instruments of violence, the front pipe came loose. It turned out to be in bad shape. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Repairing it and welding in a new flexi felt like a waste of time and energy. I will order a new front pipe. Looking at this one from BM Catalysts, art no BM70486:

 

 

It says in some eBay adds that it's meant for engine code AR 32301, while my car's got 16201. Is there any reason why it wouldn't fit anyway? It looks perfect in the pic... 

 

http://www.bmcatalysts.co.uk/catalogue/details/BM70486/7717/

Edited September 15, 2014 by Filip