Filip's GTV TS Clubsport project

[GTV-TB 315]

Good, no more hotwiring then.

[Filip 124]

Tonight's session in the man cave was shitty. Can't loosen the nut where the brake hoses connect to the brake lines. The more I try, the worse it gets.. As usual.

Soaked them for like the 100th time in brake cleaner and anti seize stuff before I left... I don't have the proper tools to build new brake lines so I dooooont wanna end up cutting them...

[Filip 124]

A question: what is green box thingy with a black plastic mounting bracket that is hanging underneath the right hand engine bay cover, covering the PS fluid reservoir?

[GTV-TB 315]

Alarm box?

 

If you gonna dump the old brake hose and the seized nut won't budge, make a cut through the nut down to the thread with a Dremel or a small angle grinder then usually the hose come off without damaging the brake line.

[Filip 124]

Alarm box?

 

If you gonna dump the old brake hose and the seized nut won't budge, make a cut through the nut down to the thread with a Dremel or a small angle grinder then usually the hose come off without damaging the brake line.

 

Maybe. It might be a movement sensor that sets off the alarm if the body shifts position. It's bolted to a horse shoe shaped bracket so I assume it is intended to sense movement of some kind... And the panel's got a tiny key hole toward the engine. Odd stuff.

 

I am planning on fitting steel braided brake hoses so that's an option, thanks! If my soaking everything in chemicals does not help, I guess this will be my last resort... 

[Filip 124]

I don't think the calipers, hoses and caliper brackets have been removed ever before during my GTV's life time. Everything is stuck, rusted and seized and it takes hours to remove basic stuff. I need more/better tools and a torch 

 

Today I also worked on removing the trunk lining. It makes you feel good to do an easy job every once in a while and see some results.  The gas springs for the trunk lid were shot, so I removed them. Saves maybe 1 kilo 

 

A question: the left gas spring had these two connectors on it, for the "open door surveillance system" between the speedo and revcounter I guess. I assumed when I was taking the spring out that the two metal plates would make contact when the lid was shut,

giving a specific resistance such that the dash light is not lit. What confuses me is that the two plates don't seem to make contact even when the spring is fully depressed. Maybe the shaft is used as a conductor...? 

 

 

Solution... I think? I can measure the resistance across the two metal plates and then connect the two cables with a corresponding resistor... I suck at electric stuff. 

 

 

Also, I have ordered Eibach camber bolts. Will be fun to try them out 

[Filip 124]

[charlee 314]

[GTV-TB 315]

A bit yello(w) music for yellow stuff.

http://vimeo.com/30499259

 

 

[Filip 124]

A bit yello(w) music for yellow stuff.

http://vimeo.com/30499259

 

That was... weird. As usual when ze geermans do something cultural 

 

 

Good news!

The calipers are off. Everything is very rusty, I might add. The gravel guards, or whatever you call them, need to bathe in acid...

 

Unexpected news!

The discs are off too. I thought they were secured by one small screw per side, as they usually are. Mine were not.  When the caliper was coming loose, it turned out that the small screw in the 6th hole in the disc actually wasn't holding the disc at all. This is 

what I thought was the "locking screw"

 

 

Scary stuff... 

[GTV-TB 315]

Chicken..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8410qUT4QtA, it's not scary at all, only function with that pin is to guide the OE rim to facilitate when you mount the wheel, and to lock the brake disc to hub (when wheel is of) so that the disc does not rotate and wheel bolt holes becomes misaligned, you need often to remove them to be able to use aftermarket rims and spacers.

 

 

[charlee 314]

You don't need that at all, as GTV-TB said. 

 

And Yello are not German

[Filip 124]

So basically everything I've written in my last post is completely wrong

[charlee 314]

So basically everything I've written in my last post is completely wrong

Yup.

[Filip 124]

I still want the sixth screw where it should be, tho. Ignoring it makes me feel uncomfortable ?! 

[GTV-TB 315]

I still want the sixth screw where it should be, tho. Ignoring it makes me feel uncomfortable ?! 

Why?   just one more thing more to rust.. and 10 grams of unsprung weight saved.

[Filip 124]

Things are going GREAT.

It turns out that my GTV has the ATE/Bendix front caliper, even though it should NOT according to production date, VIN number and so on... The calipers are really rusty so I couldn't see the ATE logo until I bathed them in brake cleaner and wire brushed them until my arms fell off. 

 

Lesson learned: Bad research costs you €70 in unusable pads. 

 

 

 

Anyone have any tips on where I can get a correct shape performance pad at a reasonable price? 

[Filip 124]

Need help!  I apparently don't have the right hex socket for the sliding pins:

 

 

What size is it?

7mm? Or is it some imperial inch thing?

 

 

 

This is how the pad should look, by the way. The caliper is marked ATE Bendix:

 

[Filip 124]

Neither 6 nor 8 mm work for the sliding pins... 

[GTV-TB 315]

Neither 6 nor 8 mm work for the sliding pins... 

6 mm is too thin? and 8 mm is too thick?

I see!  what's in between .... help me I'm not good at math..

 

[charlee 314]

6 mm is too thin? and 8 mm is too thick?

I see!  what's in between .... help me I'm not good at math..

 

 

   

[Filip 124]

6 mm is too thin? and 8 mm is too thick?

I see!  what's in between .... help me I'm not good at math..

 

 

Hahahh funny!

 

 

Didn't have a 7mm for some reason... dog must have eaten it. And what if I had gone all the way and bought that and then it turns out that some annoying Brit has made sure it's a weird nasty inch socket that no one has ever heard of. 

 

 

 

 

The 7mm did the trick. Gotta love Biltema's open hours... 

 

My front calipers are probably the rustiest I have ever seen but I've gotten the sliding pins out and the pads out. One of the locator pins on the inner pad was broken. I have no idea how that could have happened but it had snapped.The pistons are also very rusty on the inside. Actually I just turned the caliper on its side and poured a mixture of rust, something that I guess used to be paint, and dirt onto the counter. Didn't inspire that much confidence in the car 

 

All seals look good tho, so now it's just up to me to remove them in a good way so they don't break... Any tips?

[GTV-TB 315]

Biltema is your friend.

 

If your brake calipers are in that state you mention I do not know how to save the seals, but scorch the rust you have collected and mix it with some white paint = Falu red paint (an exclusive paint) and sell it on ebay -> money for new seals.

 

Why remove the seals if they are in good condition?

[Filip 124]

Biltema is your friend.

 

If your brake calipers are in that state you mention I do not know how to save the seals, but scorch the rust you have collected and mix it with some white paint = Falu red paint (an exclusive paint) and sell it on ebay -> money for new seals.

 

Why remove the seals if they are in good condition?

 

Great idea!! Or I could put the rust on a thin white sheet of plastic and play with a magnet underneath it... make some artsy fartsy patterns and sell on eBay 

 

I'm stripping the calipers completely because they weren't applying even pressure on the discs and they look terrible. Yes, really terrible. The paint is coming off in layers and there is a lot of surface rust. The car has, according to the previous owner, been used for commuting between Copenhagen and somewhere in south western Skåne (southern Sweden) for a period of time, so I blame the road salt for the corrosion on the calipers. 

 

The plan is that Mr Wire Brush is going to take the calipers for a long, rough date.  Then, they are going for an acid bath. Finally, to make them even happier, they will get a fresh layer of black heat resistant paint. 

[Filip 124]

Today's adventures in the man cave started out really bad, as I wrote above, because I ordered the wrong set of Yellowstuffs. The worst part is that I can't blame anyone but myself and my own laziness. Rather than enduring those boring 20km to double check which calipers I have on my car, I used the VIN number and production date for reference. Bad choice...

 

 

However, after an emergency trip through the blizzard (sadly, in a FWD Peugeot 407 Coupé that doesn't let you turn the ESP off when doing more than 50 km/h... and its factory ride height means you might as well put a yellow warning beacon on the roof since it acts as a plow) to buy some more tools, I started taking the calipers apart. 

 

Since I don't have compressed air at my disposal, I had to improvise to get the piston out of the caliper. The weather didn't encourage any trips to the garage, so I couldn't hook up the calipers to the car's brake lines again and "pump them out" that way, so that good old trick was out of the question.

 

Instead, I used the following:

 

 

- A bicycle hand pump

- A nozzle for inflating footballs etc

- A brake hose with the correct M10x1.0 thread. I'm gonna change mine to braided stainless steel hoses, so I chopped mine of with a knife. 

 

The pic explains the rest, doesnt it?

Fit the brake hose on the caliper, stick the nozzle into the hose and go crazy with the pump until the piston comes crashing out...