Filip's GTV TS Clubsport project

[GTV-TB 315]

If you hadn't bought them and were in the market for a set of coilovers today, what would you buy instead?

 

 Not much to choose from today if you are not made like an norrbagge  ....I take my lusekofta and runs to hide  ,  FK or KW

I have not tried any of them but what I have heard so have FK problems with the springs and the cheaper(non KONI variant) have

also problems with rebound damping.

 

 

 

I have FK silverlineX on mine, and it is well known yellow Konis with their own springs. I like the dampers, but not the springs. But it is still a lot for your money!

The TS has a lot more variety in coilovers than V6 models. See if you can get KW coilovers, as they use the same yellow Konis but again their own springs, witch I think is better!

I will try to ask KW for a set of custom springs on my car some time in the future!

 ALFADUDEN It's probably one or another standard dimension of the springs on your FK silverlineX, companies such as Eibach makes springs for coilovers, it might be an idea to check if they have something that fits your needs. (I speak from my hide...just so you know  )

Edited November 13, 2013 by GTV-TB

[Alfaduden 226]

 Not much to choose from today if you are not made like an norrbagge  ....I take my lusekofta and runs to hide  ,  FK or KW

I have not tried any of them but what I have heard so have FK problems with the springs and the cheaper(non KONI variant) have

also problems with rebound damping.

 

 

 

 ALFADUDEN It's probably one or another standard dimension of the springs on your FK silverlineX, companies such as Eibach makes springs for coilovers, it might be an idea to check if they have something that fits your needs. (I speak from my hide...just so you know  )

 

Haaaha! Do I have to remind you that Bohuslan was a Norwegian therf in the old days? I can always bring my lusekofte and take it back! LOL!

I know that there is limited spring manufactures around. I will defineltley try, IF I feel that is the way to go... Otherwise Intrax is the final answer, and as a Norrbagge I dont hesitate to spend almost 2K Euros on something that dosent come with TUV certificate..

[GTV-TB 315]

Intrax are a nice move if you go that way  , being able to adjust damping and rebound is a nice thing to have, TUV who needs it? not us up in the north.
 

[Filip 124]

Haaaha! Do I have to remind you that Bohuslan was a Norwegian therf in the old days? I can always bring my lusekofte and take it back! LOL! B)I know that there is limited spring manufactures around. I will defineltley try, IF I feel that is the way to go... Otherwise Intrax is the final answer, and as a Norrbagge I dont hesitate to spend almost 2K Euros on something that dosent come with TUV certificate..

Intrax are a nice move if you go that way , being able to adjust damping and rebound is a nice thing to have, TUV who needs it? not us up in the north.

Who cares about Bohuslän? All of Norway was ours, remember? You should wear a lusekofta for the meet at Mantorp Park in summer tho... hehe! Good input on the coilovers. Thanks! Edited November 17, 2013 by Filip

[Filip 124]

Garage - Check!

Moved my stuff!

Wheels off? - Check!

Jack stands? - Check!

ABS equipment still where the factory put it? - Check!

Odd suspension related things unvealed...... No!

[Filip 124]

Generally, the suspension on my GTV looks like it's in decent shape. Today was the first time I had the opportunity to take a detailed look underneath (just a quick look in a parking lot before I bought it) and I was pleased that everything looks as good as it does. One can tell that it has received anti corrosion treatment at an earlier stage in life, tho theres annoying surface rust on the arms, control rods and so on.

The To Do list until Christmas is:

- Figure out what the deal is with the ABS and fix it if possible (chances are improved if we dont get a shitload of snow before then...)

- Find two minor leaks, motor oil and hydraulic fluid (clutch?)

- Take the front calipers apart and clean them up because one disc is much more worn than the other, so I guess they dont apply even pressure when braking.

Anyone who might know other causes??

- Fit Yellowstuff front pads and steel braided hoses

- Fit the subframe brace

Sent from my Tablet726H using Tapatalk

[Alfaduden 226]

There is a simmering between the engine and gearbox that is often broken on the TS models. That's probably where the oil leak is.

[Filip 124]

There is a simmering between the engine and gearbox that is often broken on the TS models. That's probably where the oil leak is.

 

Are we talking about the huge ass crank seal behind the flywheel? 

[Alfaduden 226]

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-gtv-and-916-spider/377300-a-new-oil-leak.html

 

If you search thorugh the forum, you will see that there is some problems with lekage in oil cooler as well.

[GTV-TB 315]

Hey Filip how goes it, any ABS yet?....it will be slippery on the roads soon.    ...

 

Quote Filip:

- Take the front calipers apart and clean them up because one  disc is much more worn than the other, so I guess they dont  apply even pressure when braking.

  Anyone who might know other causes??

 

Sliding calipers, probably sticking to their slide pins/bolts, cleaning and lubrication will probably help.

[Thanos 193]

Garage - Check!

Moved my stuff!

Wheels off? - Check!

Jack stands? - Check!

ABS equipment still where the factory put it? - Check!

Odd suspension related things unvealed...... No!

 

So...

first you took off the wheels and then you jacked up the car?

Teach me master!

[kunev 131]

And lets write some "south" thoughts in that "northern" topic  .

First of all GTV track car is interesting idea, you will bring some style on the track  .

I think is good that you don't rush with performance upgrades and want to feel every "performance" change on the car (this is related of course with the financial side).

I will advice you to make some track day with the car in standard form or close to standard to see from where you begin. Good on the track can be achieved not only with expensive parts. You have one big problem and that is the weight of the car. So as first upgrade have to be weight reduction in my opinion. This will make the job of the brakes and suspension easier and also driveability will be much improved. At that point track pads, braided lines and good brake fluid. And in the beginning you can try with only sport springs (and replaced all bushings), because they are relatively cheap and coilovers are expensive. Strut braces will be good upgrades for track car.

P.S. I think that you have a TB. Whats happen with it?

[Filip 124]

Hey Filip how goes it, any ABS yet?....it will be slippery on the roads soon.    ...

 

Quote Filip:

- Take the front calipers apart and clean them up because one  disc is much more worn than the other, so I guess they dont  apply even pressure when braking.

  Anyone who might know other causes??

 

Sliding calipers, probably sticking to their slide pins/bolts, cleaning and lubrication will probably help.

 

Yea, will take them apart and clean and lube them properly. 

 

A noob question that has been bothering me (not just for you, but everyone who happen to read this  )

Can I leave the car with disconnected brake hoses so that old fluid drips out (brake fluid reservoir cap taken off) for some time? I mean like a week or two?  I have read stuff about getting air in the ABS unit (if it's not already f****d  ) that you can't get rid of.

Can I leave it like that while I work on the calipers? I don't know what shape they are in, except they work well enough to pass the brake test at MOT with flying colors... I mean that it might take a week or three before I can put them back together. 

 

 

So...

first you took off the wheels and then you jacked up the car?

Teach me master!

 

First lesson... 

 

Watch this:

 

 

 

 

THEN....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's a total turn off. 

Put the handbrake on when undoing the rear wheel bolts and have someone push the brake pedal when undoing the front wheel bolts... 

 

Not that I did. I loosened them before I jacked up the car. Thanks for being a smart ass 

Edited November 20, 2013 by Filip

[Filip 124]

And lets write some "south" thoughts in that "northern" topic  .

First of all GTV track car is interesting idea, you will bring some style on the track  .

I think is good that you don't rush with performance upgrades and want to feel every "performance" change on the car (this is related of course with the financial side).

I will advice you to make some track day with the car in standard form or close to standard to see from where you begin. Good on the track can be achieved not only with expensive parts. You have one big problem and that is the weight of the car. So as first upgrade have to be weight reduction in my opinion. This will make the job of the brakes and suspension easier and also driveability will be much improved. At that point track pads, braided lines and good brake fluid. And in the beginning you can try with only sport springs (and replaced all bushings), because they are relatively cheap and coilovers are expensive. Strut braces will be good upgrades for track car.

P.S. I think that you have a TB. Whats happen with it?

 

Hell yea, we're an international forum so bring it on 

 

You are right. I want to go ahead slowly and improve the car bit by bit, and it makes no sense to spend twice the value of the car on

upgrades when I don't know for sure that the engine and drivetrain will take hours of punishment on the track. And my holiday piggy bank would have died already 

 

Brakes, basic service and mechanical maintenance, a little bit of electronics, like making sure the temp gauge works and fitting an oil temp gauge, and weight reduction. That's my recipe for now. 

[charlee 314]

Yea, will take them apart and clean and lube them properly. 

 

A noob question that has been bothering me (not just for you, but everyone who happen to read this  )

Can I leave the car with disconnected brake hoses so that old fluid drips out (brake fluid reservoir cap taken off) for some time? I mean like a week or two?  I have read stuff about getting air in the ABS unit (if it's not already f****d  ) that you can't get rid of.

Can I leave it like that while I work on the calipers? I don't know what shape they are in, except they work well enough to pass the brake test at MOT with flying colors... I mean that it might take a week or three before I can put them back together. 

 

 

 

First lesson... 

 

Watch this:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEBYMPBUfbs

 

 

 

THEN....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's a total turn off. 

Put the handbrake on when undoing the rear wheel bolts and have someone push the brake pedal when undoing the front wheel bolts... 

 

Not that I did. I loosened them before I jacked up the car. Thanks for being a smart ass 

 

You have disappointed me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Filip 124]

You have disappointed me.

 

 

.... you really wanna see me swing my wand?! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[charlee 314]

Hmmm, depends on what you mean exactly 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[GTV-TB 315]

Hmmm, depends on what you mean exactly 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Filip is just bragging (swing.. hehe), in the cold weather we have here in the north you have to be happy if you can just find your "wand".

 

[GTV-TB 315]

. 

 

A noob question that has been bothering me (not just for you, but everyone who happen to read this  )

Can I leave the car with disconnected brake hoses so that old fluid drips out (brake fluid reservoir cap taken off) for some time? I mean like a week or two?  I have read stuff about getting air in the ABS unit (if it's not already f****d  ) that you can't get rid of.

Can I leave it like that while I work on the calipers? I don't know what shape they are in, except they work well enough to pass the brake test at MOT with flying colors... I mean that it might take a week or three before I can put them back together. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Make a stick that fits in between the steering wheel and the brake pedal in its lowest position (full brake), put the stick in place and leave it there until the job is done.

 

This isolate the brake lines from the master cylinder so that master cylinder, ABS unit and brake fluid reservoir do not drain from brake fluid.

 

Open the bleeding nipple on the caliper you shall remove to release the pressure in the brake line (cover with a rag so you do not spray brake fluid everywhere, brake fluid is a good paint remover so if you spill on the paint rinse with plenty of water).

 

[charlee 314]

 Filip is just bragging (swing.. hehe), in the cold weather we have here in the north you have to be happy if you can just find your "wand".

 

 

Maybe he's telling the truth 

[GTV-TB 315]

Maybe he's telling the truth 

Scary........

 

[Filip 124]

Scary........

 

Careful what you wish for.... 

 

 

 

 

 

On a totally different note, I cant but notice that Biltema (for non-Scandinavians: BIltema is a chain of home supply stores that used to focus mainly on parts and acessories for cars and motorbikes, but nowadays they sell anything from bath towels to cooking utensils and garden furniture) is a bit like IKEA; everyone is bound to end up going there, sooner or later. And you always end up buying some random stuff you didn't plan on buying...

 

Friday Fun tomorrow will be removing the calipers   Sadly it takes a little too much time to go to the garage after work on weekdays. At least if I wanna get back in time to get a couple of hours of sleep... 

Edited November 21, 2013 by Filip

[Filip 124]

When Squadra was down, I was busy with some small stuff

 

 

 

The power window liked to go down, but refused to go up. Problematic...

It turned out that the switch was worn out. A pin inside it had collapsed. Seemed hard to repair. I "hotwired" it (sounds cool, right?  ) and the window returned up nicely. 

 

Looking for a new switch unit. I even circled it 

 

I also did this... with the old, dirty and faded Ph1 grille:

 

 

Some WD40, bumper shine and a new badge and it will be as good as new!

I hope... 

[GTV-TB 315]

The power window liked to go down, but refused to go up. Problematic...

It turned out that the switch was worn out. A pin inside it had collapsed. Seemed hard to repair. I "hotwired" it (sounds cool, right?  ) and the window returned up nicely. 

 

Looking for a new switch unit. I even circled it 

 

 

Check with Marco on alfaromeo.org about that up and down thing you have circled in, he may have one.

[Filip 124]

He does!