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kunev

GTV 2.0 V6 TB Q2 competizione ... maybe ...

80 posts in this topic

Like I sad earlier I bought and use 4 mm internal diameter pipe between plenum and diverter valve and it fit just fine with standard hose clamps :) . I don't know for pipes around boost solenoid. 

About the speedometer problem - after removing of the differential (at my request) the problem was the two fixing "pins" on gear on differential which was broken. My mechanic tried to remove the bearings (to install new gear) with no success and made some custom preparation (there is word on bulgarian for that :D , but how to explain that on english - improvised repairing, which is done with simple materials and tools, which normally are not used for such things  :D ). The "shaft" which is connected to the sensor (and for which we thought that is broken and grind in the gearbox) was at the bottom of differential housing. The transmission oil is not changed for now. It will be changed in the future (probably next year) after some more tests/driving.

And the result is that I have working speedometer (for now), but have driven very little after that. So will see if it will work constantly, like it should be and of course correct. And now I have speedometer sensor, shaft connected to the sensor,gear on differential (new) and new "performance" transmission oil. 

Soon there will have surprise about car setup. Stay tuned ...  ;)

Edited by kunev

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Not yet  :) . Recently I was at my hometown with the car and with my friend the welder have been done some visual checks and thought about what what have to be done. I'm still waiting for my turn in his garage. He is very busy and have many "urgent" :angry:  projects, but my time is coming :) . For sure the work on the car will not start this month, which will be the last active month of the car before winter sleep.

About the other not so interesting things  :D about the car. Unfortunately my speedometer is still not working constantly  :( . Next week will be made more attempts for resolving of this problem  :mellow: .

After installing of boost gauge and some tests on extra urban and highway driving I have saw lower values on the gauge. But on latest long journeys I have saw good maximum values ~ 0.9-1.1. I have seen max reading of ~1.15 bar at overboost and normally max pressure ~ 0.95 bar. Maybe the reason for these values is my now almost completely missing flexi pipe  :D . I can hear exhaust  gases escaping in the area bellow my foots and my car is more noisy now.

Another thing about boost gauge is it reading with engine turned off on different elevation. In the city where I live it shows ~ 0.05-0.1 in vacuum (average 550m), in my hometown (400m) it shows 0 (in the upper part of zero line).

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And for the coming Q2 differential removal and installing new gear on the diff (if it is broken like I guess) I bought one of the best compatible transmission oil (I think that maybe the best) - Motul Gear 300.

attachicon.gif14082013139.jpg

Here is some info - spec

This oil is for transmission and differential without locking (clutch/plate type diff). For locking differential there is Motul Gear 300 LS".

When installing of Q2 and changing of transmission oil (not many km ago :D ) I don't have a chance to select oil, but now the things will be the other way  :D .

So very soon - "Installing of Q2 - part 2", hopefully last one  :angry: .

 

 

Hello Kunev,

can you give me some feedback of the motul differential oil?

I have to change it also...

Our differentials need 2L of oil if I remember right?

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The Motul oil is not used yet, because of the problem that I have with the speedometer. My speedometer is not working at all at the moment and my car is again in the service for repairing of this issue. I will use it when my speedometer is working constantly, in short I want to be filled just once in the gearbox  :D .

Yes, the quantity of transmission oil is 2l. If you have installing a Q2 diff, from what I have read it is a little bigger in displacement and with it the quantity is a little less. Another "tip" for installing of Q2 is to be used full kit, not only the differential itself. I think that Quaife diff is sell with "full kit", but if is only the differential it is highly recommended supporting parts to be changed also.

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The GTV is already in the garage for the winter. But his winter sleep will be interrupted at some point  :smile23: .

I get my car from the service and after the driving to my hometown I think that my speedometer issue is finally repaired  :) .

I had one other strange problem. Before that last driving of the car I have a little petrol in the tank and I go to one petrol station to fill the tank and after filling to top (done by two attempt, because first time the filling stopped by itself after 27-28l) the car don't wanted to start  :huh: . The starter was working but the engine don't start. I try several times, disconnected the battery, try to push start the engine but with no success  :( . Then after some time when checking of fuses and trying to remove the fuel supply hose from fuel rail (with not success) and try again to fire up the engine and this time it starts. Then I shut down and start up the engine several times and that issue have not repeat again. So I don't know what exactly happen when filling with fuel on petrol station and what was changed so engine have started. And from now on the GTV is in "only 100 octane mode" for future upgrades and tune B) .

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I read all of your message and your Gtv will be a great machine! But I think I missed the part of the ECU tuning? What chips are you running?

Edited by Damgreg

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I haven't changed ECU chips and don't know to be changed before me. And also I haven't changed anything in power-wise for now.

And the question about ECU tuning is very interesting! I think you are not the first that you have asked me about that in that topic.

I have thought to write that post from a long time and this is the moment.

A little background. The project with all these parts have to be done in the last year (before I join this forum). The initial plan was to be used the stock engine management. Before the work on the car to start I make contact with the tuner, which have to set up the ECU. He was the best option in Bulgaria for this job in my opinion. After some messages and one functional diagram of ECU and sensors he saw that the car is with flap/vane type AFM. And he told me that nothing can be done with the stock ECU and bigger turbo, because that AFM is a big restriction to the intake and also when he is fully opened the ECU don't know how much air is going into the engine. That was big surprise for me then! I didn't know much about different air flow sensors until then. Then I ask him did he work with some standalone ECU. He answer me that he work with KMS, but to install such he want the engine of the car to be fully build at their shop, because there is a lot of risk! That is very serious and expensive for me. Later I have asked him about some options with stock ECU that I have hear, but no answer anymore. Then I decide to "pause" the project (without to talk with other tuner). But I don't wanted to sell anything, because I haven't decide what to do with that car and also the parts can be used for future project (with other car). And because of that is this "...maybe..." in the title of this topic from the start of it. I wanted to build some performance car! Then I start to think for another car with more performance potential again. But I wouldn't talk about that for now because this topic is for the GTV and the option for other performance car, which I want is far from me for now (because of money of course).

I don't want to sell this car! It is my first (and only one for now) car and I really like it.

After some time I start to think that I want to change the exhaust and probably new chips and that will be all.

After some time I start to think that, when I change the exhaust will change the downpipe also (it is very restrictive).

I have read on some places that when the exhaust was much more free flow exhaust and raised boost the seals of old stock turbo give up easily and after no so long time (that was not specifically for our model but in general).

So after some time I start to think that when I change the downpipe will be good to be changed the turbo with one with more common exhaust flange, so will have more options in the future... :smile23: and also the middle pipes of exhaust manifold, because mine are very crushed. At this stage the plan for bigger turbo start to rise again. The plan was a little bigger power, but I don't wanter to push the stock turbo to the limit, because of his ineffectiveness at high boost (which will be needed for more power), the heat it will produce and shorter life.

After some time I start to think that, when the turbo will be changed with bigger one will be good to be installed the forge intercooler, which I bought earlier.

The plan is to use the stock ECU and AFM and will see what will happen (and other ECU tuner of course).

And the "little surprise" about car setup, which I mention some time ago, will be presented in the next post ... :)

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And as I promise in my previous post, the "little surprise" about car setup

post-368-0-00685000-1390137456_thumb.jpgpost-368-0-03387800-1390137465_thumb.jpg

This is Garrett GT2554R also known as GT25R  ^_^ . It is smallest Garrett ball bearing turbocharger. As you can see I bought this second hand, but according to the guy who sell it, it have been used for around 300km.

More info about the turbo -> link . In short it is for engines between 1.4 and 2.2 and for power figures between 170 and 270 hp.

The interesting thing is that this turbo (GT2554R) and GT2860RS (which I already have) are interchangeable regarding exhaust system. The flanges on exhaust housing have same position. So the plan is when work on my car start, the two turbos will be there and will be checked with both (for spacing mainly). So if later I decide to go to bigger GT28RS I will have to change only the piping connected to the compressor, which is different with different size of "in" and "out" :) .

Because my GT28RS have bigger 0.86 A/R T25 flanfed turbine housing and this GT25R have 0.64 A/R I have an idea to use the housing from GT25R to the GT28RS, but I understood that this is not possible because GT28RS have bigger wheels on turbine side and 0.64 A/R turbine housing of GT25R is smaller than 0.64 A/R turbine housing used on GT28RS.

I will be able also to use GT2560R (also known as GT28R) very easily :) .

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Interesting. I have been thinking about the GT2554R as a replacement for the one we have stock. Does this turbo need any re-mapping or any other "software"upgrading? Or is it just to smack one in, connect and drive?

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The "replacement" is very wrong word for such conversion. More appropriate terms will be  - "custom fabrications" (plural)  :D .

About remapping. If you ask for my opinion - changing of turbo with different one need some kind of adjusting. Additionally changing of injectors size absolutely needs remapping! This turbo is not so much bigger than stock, but it is clearly different and will be behave differently I'm sure. Maybe on not high boost the ECU can cope with it, but that is compromise. But in this way I think the boost have to be controlled by boost controller. But thats are only guessing.

Some times ago I have asked Bruno Galrito does he made changes to the turbo support bracket when install GT28RS and today I see that he give me not the answer, which I wanted - yes. So this mean more fabrications. It looks like that really isn't much space for bigger turbo, but will see that. And if GT25R can fit on original support bracket and GT28RS not, making the things only for GT25R is not option for me :D . 

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I'm in a planning phase that during next fall I will have a GT2560R on its way in and a programmable EMS. We will see what happens...

Edited by Alfaduden

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And the next part that I ordered is newer and more powerful fuel pump with installation kit.

post-368-0-05219300-1391540026_thumb.jpg

Walbro GSS342 255l/h high pressure fuel pump.

The Walbro pumps is very famous and some members have such or other model (GSS341) installed on their cars. But the topic is mine and I will write 2-3 things about it :) . 

The installation kit is universal one. I have thought about GSS341 or GSS342 and have go for one offer with GSS342, which have been advertised as for GTV TB (they probably haven't seen a TB alive :D ). The difference between 341 and 342 is that on 342 the input and output are inline and on GSS341 one is offset at 180 deg -> link .

The pump is smaller on size than original one and the installation of any one of the two model will be almost the same I think.

Here is one chart with flow test of the pump -> link .

So for example at 1 bar of boost (3+1=4 bar=58 psi in the fuel rail) and not high voltage at the pump (12V), the flow will be around 200lph, not bad :D .

I have suspicious about my original pump. It is old and fuel pumps lose their potential over time. And bigger injectors have to be supplied with enough fuel at any conditions.

So now I will have fuel pump enough for around 500 turbo hp  :smile23: .

 

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Kunev, I weighed my Stilauto Ghibli wheels today using a luggage scale. You know, one of those you use to make sure Ryanair/(insert a thieving budget airline of your choice) has no chance of making you pay extra for heavy bags... 

(7.5x17 ET35)

 

Weight: 10.98 kg. So 11 kg, unbelievable? Must be gold inside them somewhere.  :(

 

Edit: I might add that most Alfa factory 17" for the GTV, GT and 156 seem to be weighing around 11kg, according to a couple of threads on alfaowner.com at least. I was hoping that the Stilautos would be a little lighter. 

Edited by Filip

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Are you sure? I've seen 11.4 kg stated on alfaowner

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OEM 17" teledial is about 14kg...

Teledials is maybe more suited for the purpose in the picture? :D

post-17-0-12840500-1396638181_thumb.jpg

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Thanks Filip for the info about the weight of wheels  ;) .

About "new season" for the car. The start wasn't so good. The engine was running very bad after start on two getting out of the car in the period of "winter sleep". And probably not so surprisingly, it don't wanted to start at the moment of leaving the winter garage and starting of active season for the car. The walbro fuel pump was installed at that moment, because of previous problem of not starting after stopping at fuel station with low fuel in the tank. The Walbro and standard installation kit was almost as original replacement part :) . And with using of another fuel filter with more appropriate shape for the "basket" it look like factory assembly. Unfortunately I don't have picture of this installation. And after all this was planed upgrade.

After some inspections was found that there is problem with distributor cap. After some cleaning of the electrodes engine starts and work normally. So new distributor cap and rotor arm have to be ordered. After some misunderstanding with this car mechanic in my home town, we both have bought distributor cap and rotor. So now I have one Bosch distributor cap and one Beru rotor arm as spares.

post-368-0-95694600-1404410731_thumb.jpg

If someone have problem with finding these parts for his TB, I can help him.

And another new old problem have arise - speedometer. New gear on sensor was installed and this time I was promised that this time will be last repairing for this problem. I really hope so.

The brake disc was skimmed on vehicle with Pro Cut machine. I have mentioned this on another brake topic here, so will see this in the near future.

But tuning project for the car will be delayed. This year for sure. This is because one big surprise, which will be presented soon  :smile23: .

And sorry again for the long post to all of you who have patience to read it all :D . I have to write more frequently  :) .

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What's your feedback after changing it? I'll order for that pieces too.

And I think I found a solution for a problem which can help most of the TB owners with the throttle pedal problem when higher boost when release the pedal... I'll speak about that later, just to be sure of what I say because there is 2 solutions and I want to know if the free one can work too. Stay tuned :D

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Kunev, Have been reading your post. Very good explanation to our fellow alfa lovers. Looking into working to my 2nd GTV V6 2.0TB soon.  Keep up the post I would need in sourcing some of the parts you mentioned.... cheers :thumbsup:

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Haven't wrote here for a while, but there isn't anything happen with the car. I'm still waiting the guy, which have to make most of the work.

The car is in garage for the winter and the battery is at my home, but hopefully its relaxing sleep will be interrupted by some tuning work.

Damgreg, the car work normal after distributor cap and arm change. Previously I have problems, when get out the car for a drive in the winter (at dry weather and not so cold) after it was stayed for some time and with disconnected battery. So will see how it behave, if I get out it for a drive in the winter. But until putting the car in garage for winter, which happen last week it is worked normal.

I'm thinking of selling the Garrett GT2860RS, which I have bought originally for the car. It is brand new with a box. It is the model with bigger exhaust housing - 0.86 A/R.

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My respects for you.. The lovers of GTV love this kind of modifications.. great work ! What a monster u have... :wub:

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