Turbo Brutale

[GTV-TB 315]

No need for blocking inlet or outlet on the Pierburg valve, but you need to block the inlet on the pipe between AFM and turbo air intake (see the picture, circled in red), an air leak there may be the reason for the idle problem.

 

How have you connected your manual boost valve ? bleed valve or dawes device ?

 

You should have 12V at one point and 0V on the other point of the electrical connector, ECU activates/energizes the Pierburg valve by a grounding singnal to the Pierburg valve.

 

 

[Alfaduden 226]

Ok. thanks.

I had the pierburg still commected to the AFM reference outlet on air intake. Will try to block this today.

I connected according to this drawing:

 

Boost source to turbo housing and actuator to wastegate.

Edited January 9, 2014 by Alfaduden

[GTV-TB 315]

.

I connected according to this drawing.

Boost source to turbo housing and actuator to wastegate.

It looks to be correct.  

[kunev 131]

Personally I don't like your approach for resolving the problem - installing of manual boost controller, because you have low boost  . 

I think overboost is activated, when you push the pedal to the metal from "middle rpm". My advice is to go back to original setup and try to find the reason for the problem. From your clips I see that you can not reach higher than 0.9 bar on the gauge, but I can not feel and hear how the car behave at that "max" boost. Have you drive the car recently, before that problem?  Does the car chokes, when running at that "max" boost? If the car is running fine only the boost was much lower I will try to find some boost leak. Check the piping after the turbo. Check boost bypass valve for cracking of rubber membrane. Check boost solenoid for changing its state, when supply it with 12V. And you can see to which exit the source pressure goes, when energized and not. 

Does anyone know what is off state of stock boost solenoid - opened to intake before turbo (normally opened) or to wastegate (normally closed)?

You can have low boost also by wastegate not functioning properly - not moving freely, can not close completely.

[Damgreg 94]

Yesterday I read (where ???  ) that the solenoid was pulling the lever while applying a 0V signal instead of +12V...

It seems me logical because a faulty (or disconnected) solenoid can't let the wastegate closed...

Edited January 9, 2014 by Damgreg

[GTV-TB 315]

Does anyone know what is off state of stock boost solenoid - opened to intake before turbo (normally opened) or to wastegate (normally closed)?

 Solenoid not activated/energized - Pierburg valve opens to wastegate.

 

Solenoid activated/energized - Pierburg valve opens to the intake before turbo (when the ECU pulls up the boost pressure from wastegate default ~ 0.6 bar to ~0,9 bar or overboost ~1,2 bar.)

 

[Alfaduden 226]

Ehhmm

I am embarrassed... I forgot to connect the MAF sensor... I was lying in bed and thinking about the rough idle and no throttle respons, when I finally remembered that I had for some reason disconnected the MAF... Stupid...

 

The car runs great now. And I drive with 0,9bar steady pressure. I will slowly increase pressure when I feel confident. I think 1,1 bar is enough...

 

Also, I have swapped all jublee clips on all hoses to new and fresh ones. The old was not tightned at all. New braided vacuum hoses all the way did magic things as well. 

 

I look forward to Gran Turisimo events on Nurburgring in may now!

Edited January 10, 2014 by Alfaduden

[kunev 131]

So you keep the manual boost controller? And how is the car now compared to ECU controlled boost by solenoid?

Thanks for the answer, about solenoid states GTV-TB  . But the bellow thing is very strange to me.

... some ECUs turn off the detection of pinking/knock if the pierburg valve is not electrical connected (I do not know if it is so with

EZK212 but it is better to be safe than sorry).

I have one idea - to electrically disconnect the solenoid after my turbo upgrade and in this way to drive with pressure by wastegate spring to the moment of custom ECU setting. But maybe I will just drive slowly without full throttle.

P.S. Nice boost gauge stand Alfaduden  . Where you think to mount the gauge and what brand is it?

[Alfaduden 226]

Yes, I kept that for now.

It drives good now. But it still stops around 1 bar. The turbo then starts to make a lot of whistleling (like a vacuum cleaner ) . Maybe I have another leak?

It does not "cut" like it did before in the clips posted earlier though...

 

Hehe the temperarley boost gauge is rather funny as is. I think I will replace the clock in the centre. It is a VDO gauge. Onliy need a green bulb.

[GTV-TB 315]

Always nice when one finds a simple solution to a problem in bed,  you sleep well afterwards.

 

Concerning whistling check for leaks on the pressure side of the turbo (there is a risk that you are overloading the turbo if there are leaks), but it can also just be turbo spooling that you hear, have you made any changes on the exhaust, intake, air filter etc ?

 

If it is a more of a siren or grindy type whistling you have take a look into turbo inducer and check for damage to the compressor wheel, also place a finger on the compressor wheel and wiggle a little to check for excessive play on the shaft or bearings.

 

When you say "it still stops around 1 bar" do you mean no matter what you set the dawes device at ?
(could you take a picture at the back of your dawes device ?)

 

@ KUNEV, I do not really understand what is strange, could you explain a bit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Alfaduden 226]

I will look a bit more into this today.

Short summary is that I have the same trouble with pierburg valve, so now I know that this is probably functioning as intended.

The noise is much like a constant sonud of when wastegate opens. You can hear it barely in the two clips I have on the previous page.

 

When I changed all the jubilee clips on intake I felt the rotorblades on the turbo for any free movements. This was nice and thight, so no broken bearings I guess.

 

I have a new wastegate actuator lying around. But I really think that isn't the problem. Either the internal wastegate itself or a bigger leak somewhere.

The turbo should not be overloaded since both with manual boost valve and pierburg it stops around 1 bar... If I set the manual to 0,6-0,7bar it pulls very strong and no "jumping" og misfiring. 

[kunev 131]

Alfaduden, is this mechanical or electrical boost gauge?

 

@ KUNEV, I do not really understand what is strange, could you explain a bit.

In my opinion it is strange ECU to turn off safety features on any condition.

 

[Alfaduden 226]

Manual boost valve. As seen on picture in previous page.

After a long day with troubleshooting I found even more loose jubilee clips. Stupid workshop that don't do things properly. I start to think what else that is wrong...

After removing the wastegate acutator and checked this we started to think that this long axle to the wastegate should be adustable. I have seen several actuators on T25 turbos that are adjustable. Particularly on Nissans...

We may preform a minor modification on this... To force the wastegate to be more closed...

 

Anyways, We also started on a plan to weld some new exhaust pipes under the car and remove the catalytic converter.

I will leave for work on monday and come home in 2 weeks. Then we will start to do some welding...

 

After driving home from my friends garage now the car behaved different.. Suddenly it boosted over 1 bar without any trouble!      

 

Will come back with more info later.

To be continued....

[kunev 131]

I have used wrong word and probably it have confused you. My question is mechanical or electrical boost gauge.

[Alfaduden 226]

Sorry, and I haven't read properly I guess.. I use a manual boost gauge. Probably not the best, but good enough for a indication.

[GTV-TB 315]

 

In my opinion it is strange ECU to turn off safety features on any condition.

 

 

 Some ECUs are put together in this way (do not ask me why), but as I mentioned earlier I do not know if this is the case with EZ212K, so until I know for sure will the Pierburg valve remain connected (electrically) despite I do not use it.

[Damgreg 94]

If you use a mechanical solenoid you have to let your pierburg electrically connected.

Envoyé de mon GT-I9300 en utilisant Tapatalk

[kunev 131]

Just to make some corrections.

Alfaduden, you mean mechanical boost gauge. Your boost gauge is from good brand (VDO) and should be as good as any good boost gauge  . And from what I have read mechanical boost gauge have better response than electrical.

Damgreg, do you mean manual boost controller when write mechanical solenoid. The boost solenoids are only electrical. Pierburg is solenoid. 

[Alfaduden 226]

Yap I do. Sorry I was in a rush. Had to pick up the MiTo from where the party was last night...

Now the GTV has been parked in the garage again. I am on my way to work. Going offshore for 14 days then home again and continuing on the GTV.

 

A friend of mine an me are attending Gran Turisimo Event on Nurburgring 7-10 may. I have to get the car ready to drive to days and as many laps as possible on Nordschleife...

http://www.granturismoevents.com/gran-turismo-nurburgring-2014/

We have a good plan, and I will keep you posted during preparations. A Travel letter will come after the trip

Edited January 12, 2014 by Alfaduden

[kunev 131]

Now I read for this event from the link you post. Two things caught my eye. First is that the participants are limited to 120 cars. The second is that the tax is 2800E for one car with 2 drivers and that is maybe without VAT! The cars on the photos are very serious.

[Alfaduden 226]

Now I read for this event from the link you post. Two things caught my eye. First is that the participants are limited to 120 cars. The second is that the tax is 2800E for one car with 2 drivers and that is maybe without VAT! The cars on the photos are very serious.

Wich includes all meals, hotels, unlimited laps on nordschleife for 2 days.

All in all not so expensive in other words...

For me in Norway I did not have to pay any VAT.

[Alfaduden 226]

I started with the preparations for Gran Turisimo Event. First was to check witch ABS sensor that was causing trouble. In the front both had 15-1600ohm. But one is a bit broken physically on the hub. I will order new tomorrow. Then I started with the turbo gauge install. I have chosen to remove the clock and install the gauge in there. I will break the housing itself due to the new hole I need to drill for the gauge. I removed the glass on the boost gauge to make it as similar to the others as possible.

Here is some pictures from the gauge.

Tomorrow I will remove the catalytic converter and buy the necessary parts to fabricate a "dummy".

I will also need to find a way through the torpedo-wall. If not I ends to drill ha hole and make a bulkhead.

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[Alfaduden 226]

Here is some pics from the current work:

 

 

New wheel bearing rear. Easiest job I've ever done!

 

under car>

 

 

 

Here is the cat for late models TB.

 

 

Edited January 31, 2014 by Alfaduden

[GTV-TB 315]

progress  .......to soft suspension? scrapes on the cat.

[Alfaduden 226]

progress  .......to soft suspension? scrapes on the cat.

Hah. Naahh I doubt. I think it is due to the egde that I have to get over when storing the car in the barn.