Turbo Brutale

[GTV-TB 315]

Those are Iridium spark plugs right?

I got some denso iridium for my V6. They have a gap of 0.4mm.

Do you think that it is a good idea to gap them to 0.65mm?

No, the NGK plugs are common copper spark plug and the Bosch plugs are a silver-plated copper variation with four side electrodes.

 

Keep your spark plugs with 0.4mm gap, when Iridium is a rather poor conductor, long-lived and made ​​for today's longer service intervals engines.

 

I do not like the Iridiums on the TB, random misfire when you push the engine but I've only tried NGK's Iridium plugs.

[Thanos 193]

Can you please post a link for the NGKs that you mean?

 

About the denso iridium,

I just want to experiment..

the good thing is that the common spark plugs are not expensive if I have to change over again.

Well.. I actually should have asked first.. nevermind.. blah..

[GTV-TB 315]

Bosch WR56 (So far, those that have worked best on my engine, but you need to reduce the gap on all four side electrodes to

0.6-0.65mm from the center electrode).

http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/bosch-wr56.html

 

Also reduce the gap if you go  for the NGK plugs.

BP7ES, without resistor

http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/ngk-bp7es.html

BPR7ES, with resistor

http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/ngk-bpr7es.html

 

[Alfaduden 226]

Any   news?

 

Not much, besides that the starter motor has decided not to work properly. It won't start when the engine is hot.

It is not even clicking in the relay... Hehe

A new starter is being searched after and hopefully installed before the snow arrives...

I have a plan to change the plugs during the winter sleep. A new thermostat will be installed too.

I also need to visit a exhaust garage, to fabricate a replacement for the cat.

I have ordered two new rear wheel bearings from ricambi alfisti.

I'm in search for a set of street slicks for next years track day meetings, but this is not a priority.

[Filip 124]

 

Not much, besides that the starter motor has decided not to work properly. It won't start when the engine is hot.

It is not even clicking in the relay... Hehe

A new starter is being searched after and hopefully installed before the snow arrives...

I have a plan to change the plugs during the winter sleep. A new thermostat will be installed too.

I also need to visit a exhaust garage, to fabricate a replacement for the cat.

I have ordered two new rear wheel bearings from ricambi alfisti.

I'm in search for a set of street slicks for next years track day meetings, but this is not a priority.

 

That's a good little to-do list for the winter 

 

I'm also looking for semi slicks, but finding a set of cheap ET30ish 5x98 wheels is proving to be even harder 

[Alfaduden 226]

That's a good little to-do list for the winter 

 

I'm also looking for semi slicks, but finding a set of cheap ET30ish 5x98 wheels is proving to be even harder 

I will use the wheels I have my winter tires on now. Fit perfectly on without any spacers or wobbly bolts

[Alfaduden 226]

This is how my engine looks like now

 

I still have issues with the boost. It feels just like this guy is describing:http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-gtv-and-916-spider/149155-where-is-located-the-fuel-filter-in-v6-tb.html

 

 I'm thinking to change the wastegate, and the "n75" valve or what it is called. I bought the full version of MES (MultiEcuScan) to try and sort out a few things, but since I have a Mac with a virtuell windows it is impossible to connect it to the car

 

I have new spark plug leads, rotor, distribution cap and plugs (still not installed the BPR7) but the 6 that is in now are just used 3000km

Edited December 18, 2013 by Alfaduden

[Damgreg 94]

You should have learn before trying to connect MES to the V6 TB... No one successed with our car. Impossible to connect to the motronic.

[charlee 314]

Check the small tube on the Pierburg valve that's bent in 90º. It tends to close completely with age and that was the problem with my car. 

[GTV-TB 315]

Hi ALFADUDEN, in the link at alfaowner you referred to they talk about cut off, do you have an hard/unpleasant cut off and afterwards you can not pass a certain rpm without it cuts off again whether you have boost pressure or not until you have restarted the engine or is it more like that the power disappear on boost somewhere between 50% -100% throttle pedal position and the engine doesn't want to push up in rpm?

 

If it is the hard cut off check that the part that the arrow points at in the image are still there.

 

If it is the "soft cut off" regap your spark plugs to ~0.6-0.65 mm and test.

 

Also check the Pierburg valve hoses as Charlee mentions if you are still using the Pierburg valve.

 

[Alfaduden 226]

Check the small tube on the Pierburg valve that's bent in 90º. It tends to close completely with age and that was the problem with my car. 

 

Thanks! Will do! I have now ordered a VDO boost gauge, and a manual pressure regulator. There will be much easier to log any boost issues.

 

Hi ALFADUDEN, in the link at alfaowner you referred to they talk about cut off, do you have an hard/unpleasant cut off and afterwards you can not pass a certain rpm without it cuts off again whether you have boost pressure or not until you have restarted the engine or is it more like that the power disappear on boost somewhere between 50% -100% throttle pedal position and the engine doesn't want to push up in rpm?

 

If it is the hard cut off check that the part that the arrow points at in the image are still there.

 

If it is the "soft cut off" regap your spark plugs to ~0.6-0.65 mm and test.

 

Also check the Pierburg valve hoses as Charlee mentions if you are still using the Pierburg valve.

 

Its not a hard cut off. Over 3000rpm it struggle to accelerate and are jumping a lot. It feels like it dosent want to give me any more. This is only a problem when trottle is over 50% ca.

I WILL regap and install the new sparkplugs and check the hose as charlee mentioned.

Thanks guys!

[Alfaduden 226]

By the way...
I wonder if this Air to air intercooler serve any purpose to the engine. Worth installing?

 

 

I can have it for less than 40EUR, so not a big cost...  

[Filip 124]

Not sure you'll feel a performance increase, but it would be a bit of PITA to install since its got the connectors on separate sides. Given the position of the turbo and intake (same side), I'd look for an IC with both connectors on the same side, if I were you 

[Alfaduden 226]

Yeah. I actually did just realize that hehe...

[charlee 314]

Isn't it better to have connections on separate sides and have a FMIC?

[Filip 124]

Performance wise, yes. Tho I think the added pipes, especially the bend right at the compressor housing and the 180 degree turn at the right hand side of the IC, cancel out any performance gains if you keep the standard turbo and the rest of the factory intake

[Thanos 193]

..or you can cut off that bend. 

[valver156 0]

This is how my engine looks like now

 

I still have issues with the boost. It feels just like this guy is describing:http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-gtv-and-916-spider/149155-where-is-located-the-fuel-filter-in-v6-tb.html

 

 I'm thinking to change the wastegate, and the "n75" valve or what it is called. I bought the full version of MES (MultiEcuScan) to try and sort out a few things, but since I have a Mac with a virtuell windows it is impossible to connect it to the car

 

I have new spark plug leads, rotor, distribution cap and plugs (still not installed the BPR7) but the 6 that is in now are just used 3000km

Where are you buyed these spark plug leads?

 

Thanks in advance.

[Alfaduden 226]

http://www.magnecor.co.uk/stockists.asp?keyword=&type=dealer&manufacturer=&country=Spain&county=&city=&Submit=Search&method=search

 

or:

sales@magnecor.co.uk

 

or:

 

http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/pages/pricing/ccp/magnecor-leads-ccp.asp

[Alfaduden 226]

I have been fiddeling with the problems regarding boost issues today.

Installed a gauge so I could see where and how the pressure behaved weird.

It seems like it stops from "overboosting" at approx 0,8-0,9 Bar.

Up to 0,8 bar everything is perfect.

 

See this video I made:

 

 

After a session of several "boosting rounds" I parked it in the garage for the night. With warm engine the Raggazzon played a rather nice tune:

 

 

I will remove the cat. during spring

 

Tomorrow I will disconnect hoses from "pierburg" valve and install a manual adjustable boost valve. Hopefully this solves the problem and I will no longer have to wait for "overboost". I will try and set the boost to approx 0,9 bar.

Edited January 7, 2014 by Alfaduden

[GTV-TB 315]

 

Tomorrow I will disconnect hoses from "pierburg" valve and install a manual adjustable boost valve. Hopefully this solves the problem and I will no longer have to wait for "overboost". I will try and set the boost to approx 0,9 bar.

 Good move, a Pierburg valve is no fun.  

 

[Alfaduden 226]

Yap. Think that will do the trick.

All though, Im a bit concerned about squadra chip and not a functioning "pierburg" valve... Does it have any impact? My thought is to leave the electrical wire connected to the pierburg and just attach it somewhere handy and "out of the way" from anything else.

 

Anybody know how much boost Squadra gives? If "overboost" is 1,1Bar, is it then safe to crank the boostvalve up to 1,0Bar and set it there?

[GTV-TB 315]

Yap. Think that will do the trick.

All though, Im a bit concerned about squadra chip and not a functioning "pierburg" valve... Does it have any impact? My thought is to leave the electrical wire connected to the pierburg and just attach it somewhere handy and "out of the way" from anything else.

 

Anybody know how much boost Squadra gives? If "overboost" is 1,1Bar, is it then safe to crank the boostvalve up to 1,0Bar and set it there?

Squadra chip does not care about a functioning pierburg valve but leave the electrical wire connected to the pierburg valve when some ECUs turn off the detection of pinking/knock if the pierburg valve is not electrical connected (I do not know if it is so with

EZK212 but it is better to be safe than sorry).

 

I'm running with 1.2 bar for some years and have no problem.

[Damgreg 94]

Squadra tuning chips are running 1.3b on overboost and 1.1b after. 

But you have to match the fuel injection in order to avoid running lean 

[Alfaduden 226]

More problems now...

Installed the manual boost valve, but do I need to block the inlet and outlet on the pierburg? Or can I just leave it open?

 

I also did a measure on the electrical contact on pierburg valve, and this seems to be dead... No voltage when key ignition "on". Ca 0,5V at idle, but that is more and less zero...

 

When disconecting pierburg from air/vacuum connection the "injector" lamp came on and car did not idle and jumped a lot...

I will try again tomorrow.

Edited January 8, 2014 by Alfaduden