GTV-TB

Biltema is your friend. If your brake calipers are in that state you mention I do not know how to save the seals, but scorch the rust you have collected and mix it with some white paint = Falu red paint (an exclusive paint) and sell it on ebay -> money for new seals. Why remove the seals if they are in good condition?

6 mm is too thin? and 8 mm is too thick? I see! what's in between .... help me I'm not good at math..

I had some conversations with vanctokyo and the data you present is probably all he managed to collect, any images (except those external and internal) or other facts on the modifications didn't appear on this odd TB.

The voltage regulator in the picture is for an Bosch alternator, some 166 at least TS have Marelli alternators.

Maybe it's just the brushes on the voltage regulator which are worn down, should be replaceable without removing the alternator (on a V6 you may need to temporary remove the oil filter).

Why? just one more thing more to rust.. and 10 grams of unsprung weight saved.

Chicken..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8410qUT4QtA, it's not scary at all, only function with that pin is to guide the OE rim to facilitate when you mount the wheel, and to lock the brake disc to hub (when wheel is of) so that the disc does not rotate and wheel bolt holes becomes misaligned, you need often to remove them to be able to use aftermarket rims and spacers.

A bit yello(w) music for yellow stuff. http://vimeo.com/30499259

Alarm box? If you gonna dump the old brake hose and the seized nut won't budge, make a cut through the nut down to the thread with a Dremel or a small angle grinder then usually the hose come off without damaging the brake line.

Good, no more hotwiring then.

Check with Marco on alfaromeo.org about that up and down thing you have circled in, he may have one.

Scary........

Make a stick that fits in between the steering wheel and the brake pedal in its lowest position (full brake), put the stick in place and leave it there until the job is done. This isolate the brake lines from the master cylinder so that master cylinder, ABS unit and brake fluid reservoir do not drain from brake fluid. Open the bleeding nipple on the caliper you shall remove to release the pressure in the brake line (cover with a rag so you do not spray brake fluid everywhere, brake fluid is a good paint remover so if you spill on the paint rinse with plenty of water).

Filip is just bragging (swing.. hehe), in the cold weather we have here in the north you have to be happy if you can just find your "wand".

Bosch WR56 (So far, those that have worked best on my engine, but you need to reduce the gap on all four side electrodes to 0.6-0.65mm from the center electrode). http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/bosch-wr56.html Also reduce the gap if you go for the NGK plugs. BP7ES, without resistor http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/ngk-bp7es.html BPR7ES, with resistor http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/ngk-bpr7es.html

No, the NGK plugs are common copper spark plug and the Bosch plugs are a silver-plated copper variation with four side electrodes. Keep your spark plugs with 0.4mm gap, when Iridium is a rather poor conductor, long-lived and made ​​for today's longer service intervals engines. I do not like the Iridiums on the TB, random misfire when you push the engine but I've only tried NGK's Iridium plugs.

Any news?

Hey Filip how goes it, any ABS yet?....it will be slippery on the roads soon. ... Quote Filip: - Take the front calipers apart and clean them up because one disc is much more worn than the other, so I guess they dont apply even pressure when braking. Anyone who might know other causes?? Sliding calipers, probably sticking to their slide pins/bolts, cleaning and lubrication will probably help.

Well done, have browsed around the site which is now snappy and fluent to browse.

Intrax are a nice move if you go that way , being able to adjust damping and rebound is a nice thing to have, TUV who needs it? not us up in the north.

Not much to choose from today if you are not made like an norrbagge ....I take my lusekofta and runs to hide , FK or KW I have not tried any of them but what I have heard so have FK problems with the springs and the cheaper(non KONI variant) have also problems with rebound damping. ALFADUDEN It's probably one or another standard dimension of the springs on your FK silverlineX, companies such as Eibach makes springs for coilovers, it might be an idea to check if they have something that fits your needs. (I speak from my hide...just so you know )

There are those who Alfastumper sold, sadly, if I have understood it correctly so suddenly raised the manufacturer they used the price so much so they took them away from their range, unfortunately, you did got a lot for your money. Yes I live half of my allotted time in København and the other half in Skåne.

Yes Filip you have to wonder what norrbaggar are made of, casually buying a brand new set of OZ Ultraleggeras whenever they like. Strömstad, Skokloster sorry I find myself at the wrong end of the country.

THANOS I saw your question about oil pressure gauge, you already have a warning light if the oil pressure is dangerously low and say that you get an oil leak or oil pump dies or similar it goes fast so what should you do in time to save the engine even though you have an oil pressure gauge to monitor the oil pressure but I can see the point to have oil temp gauge so you do not kill the oil by overheating it. I was wean off oil pressure gauges after a life together with an Alfetta GT, the readings were always mad but the car drove fine for many years and that at last killed the engine was the spica injection who gave up and leaned out the fueling so I blew holes in two pistons.

Awesome bunch of Alfa's you have there and the Ultraleggera fit them all.