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GTV-TB
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Content count
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Joined
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Everything posted by GTV-TB
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And the answer is....................................drum roll .............................................155. Am I right? ..........................................What do I win?
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Yeah......have had my best years.
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Na..I'm the one hanging out the window, looking at the girls .......dreaming as usual.
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Good choice if are caught up in the mylder trafikken (traffic queue) to Copenhagen if that is where you are heading.
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Prancing Älg (moose), you have a serious problem with SAAB virus. Another part of SAAB (still existing) builds the world's largest rotary cultivator. <iframe width="490" height="370" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/6X-kXrVbNKo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" data-link="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6X-kXrVbNKo"></iframe>
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Hello guys im new on the forum from alfaowners
GTV-TB replied to jonalfaspider's topic in Introduce Yourself
No teledials and the koni sports not adjusted to softest (why buy adjustable shock absorbers?), then you have to be prepared on to be hammered on at AO...by the way, welcome and what nice cars you have. -
Some ECUs are put together in this way (do not ask me why), but as I mentioned earlier I do not know if this is the case with EZ212K, so until I know for sure will the Pierburg valve remain connected (electrically) despite I do not use it.
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Always nice when one finds a simple solution to a problem in bed, you sleep well afterwards. Concerning whistling check for leaks on the pressure side of the turbo (there is a risk that you are overloading the turbo if there are leaks), but it can also just be turbo spooling that you hear, have you made any changes on the exhaust, intake, air filter etc ? If it is a more of a siren or grindy type whistling you have take a look into turbo inducer and check for damage to the compressor wheel, also place a finger on the compressor wheel and wiggle a little to check for excessive play on the shaft or bearings. When you say "it still stops around 1 bar" do you mean no matter what you set the dawes device at ? (could you take a picture at the back of your dawes device ?) @ KUNEV, I do not really understand what is strange, could you explain a bit.
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Not much is happening with the GTV at the moment , it gets its once a week start up and heating waiting for spring is coming. But I have road hump tuned my Punto , it sounds like a genuine Italian sports car now , a good substitute for the winter.
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Solenoid not activated/energized - Pierburg valve opens to wastegate. Solenoid activated/energized - Pierburg valve opens to the intake before turbo (when the ECU pulls up the boost pressure from wastegate default ~ 0.6 bar to ~0,9 bar or overboost ~1,2 bar.)
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Keep the heat exchanger and fit the adaptor plate on it.
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It looks to be correct.
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Check if there are any plug on the coolant-engine oil heat exchanger (at the oil filter) you could replace with the oil temp sensor, if not Biltema is your friend. http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bil-tillbehor/Bil-el/Instrument/Adapter-for-oljegivare-322005/
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I'll keep my fingers crossed.
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No need for blocking inlet or outlet on the Pierburg valve, but you need to block the inlet on the pipe between AFM and turbo air intake (see the picture, circled in red), an air leak there may be the reason for the idle problem. How have you connected your manual boost valve ? bleed valve or dawes device ? You should have 12V at one point and 0V on the other point of the electrical connector, ECU activates/energizes the Pierburg valve by a grounding singnal to the Pierburg valve.
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Squadra chip does not care about a functioning pierburg valve but leave the electrical wire connected to the pierburg valve when some ECUs turn off the detection of pinking/knock if the pierburg valve is not electrical connected (I do not know if it is so with EZK212 but it is better to be safe than sorry). I'm running with 1.2 bar for some years and have no problem.
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Good move, a Pierburg valve is no fun.
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Reuse the bolts if they are not damaged.
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Here. http://brakeparts.co.uk/#page=parts&pageSection=BHF&mancode=ALFA&brand=ALFA+ROMEO&model=GTV&modelversion=GTV*(95-05)+2.0+16V+%26+V6+COUPE BCK5414, but it seems that the postage cost will be cheaper if you shop on fleebay, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPER-REPAIR-KIT-ATE-54mm-OPTION-BCK5414R-/261206749286?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cd122b066#ht_4984wt_1172 Budweg page http://caliper.budweg.com/Repairkits.aspx , item is called 205414 there.
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Hi ALFADUDEN, in the link at alfaowner you referred to they talk about cut off, do you have an hard/unpleasant cut off and afterwards you can not pass a certain rpm without it cuts off again whether you have boost pressure or not until you have restarted the engine or is it more like that the power disappear on boost somewhere between 50% -100% throttle pedal position and the engine doesn't want to push up in rpm? If it is the hard cut off check that the part that the arrow points at in the image are still there. If it is the "soft cut off" regap your spark plugs to ~0.6-0.65 mm and test. Also check the Pierburg valve hoses as Charlee mentions if you are still using the Pierburg valve.
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Hi CHARLEE, I took a closer look at the hoses, and it seems that it is other hoses on V6 24V first after 08-2000 and on 2.0 JTS, 3.2 V6 24V.
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The front hoses are different for the V6 24V, I'm am interested in rear hoses and hose for the clutch if such can be made.
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Should be, I believe that it is only the offset on brake disc which differs a bit between TS and TB.
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http://www.brake-lines.co.uk/automotive/alfa-romeo/gtv/
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A nice one, nothing is as nice as when one finds a simple solution to a problem.
